Building a Hollow-Built Bamboo Switch Rod – Chapter 1

I recently started on another Hollow-Built Bamboo Switch Rod.  I though it would be fun to document my process along the way, so here are some early photos.  First, the bamboo is selected and split.  For this Switch Rod, four pieces of matching bamboo were used.

Each piece of bamboo is split into 18 to 20 pieces.

Each piece of bamboo is split into 18 to 20 pieces.

Splitting into small strips.

Splitting into narrow strips.

The strips for the Butt Section and Mid Section are done.  The Tip sections still need to be split.

The strips for the Butt Section and Mid Section are done. The Tip sections still need to be split.

After heat treating, the bamboo strips are roughed out into a triangular shape on a Bellinger Beveler.

After heat treating, the bamboo strips are roughed out into a triangular shape on a Bellinger Beveler.

Hand Planing gets the strips down to the final tapered dimensions.

Hand Planing gets the strips down to the final tapered dimensions.

Each strip on the Butt and Mid Sections get hollowed with scalloped cuts on the inside edge.

Each strip on the Butt and Mid Sections get hollowed with scalloped cuts on the inside edge.

- The planed and hollowed bamboo strips are then glued together using Unibond 800 adhesive and a Bellinger Binder. The thread holds the strips together under a constant tension until the glue cures.

– The planed and hollowed bamboo strips are then glued together using Unibond 800 adhesive and a Bellinger Binder.
The thread holds the strips together under a constant tension until the glue cures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5 thoughts on “Building a Hollow-Built Bamboo Switch Rod – Chapter 1

  1. Ah, excellent, another one to join the “herd!” Is this one so you don’t have to borrow Mary Ann’s anymore, or for another lucky customer? Paul

    • Hi Paul,

      I have two goals on this one. First, compare a solid-built switch rod to a Hollow-Built switch rod of the same taper. I’m very curious to see the changes in rod action and weight. Second, this will get a second switch rod for me to use…so I don’t have to borrow Mary Ann’s rod. I’ll have it at the Boise Fly Fishing Show in January. Hope you can make the show and cast this rod a little.

      Dave

  2. Awesome Dave, can’t wait to wiggle it. Planning on being at the show in January. Paul

  3. outstanding, I have this very thing in my sights for my next rod. I hope you can refer me to the recipe for a switch(s).
    I would also like to know what mix you are using for Unibond 800. The recent two sections I have attempted to glue up were setting far too fast. I know there must be a formula for a more open time, do you have the solution?
    Brian

    • Hi Brian,

      Its good to hear from you. I’m using a ratio of about 12:1 resin to powder hardener (by weight) with Unibond 800. If you want a slower curing, you could bump that up to 15:1. I’ve tried using ammonium chloride in water for the catalyst but haven’t been happy with the results…had a few sections break apart. So, I would recommend staying with the powder hardener that you get with the Unibond 800. I’m assuming you’re getting your Unibond 800 from Nelson Paint Company. Also, make sure your Unibond 800 is relatively new. The manufacturer says it has a one year shelf life, and I believe that based on my experience. I’ve found that once a can is opened, it will start to thicken slowly, and after about 6 or 8 months, it can be quite thick…resulting in a quick setup time. I’ll email you with some info about switch rod recipes.

      Dave

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