Swinging with my Switch Rod for Steelhead.

Mary Ann and I hit a local river with one of my bamboo switch rods two days ago, hoping to scare up a steelhead.  I took out my 10′  6″  5 wt. switch rod…a little under gunned if I happened into a large winter fish.  I swung a #6 bucktail coachman on an intermediate leader….yes, Paul, you’ve had an influence on my fly selection!  The weather was cold (33 degrees) and foggy, and all we caught were frozen extremities and iced-up guides.  But it was still fun to get out.

A #6 Bucktail Coachman

A #6 Bucktail Coachman

Swinging with my bamboo switch rod

Swinging with my bamboo switch rod

 

2014 Western Idaho Fly Fishing Expo

Mary Ann and I just got back from Boise and the 2014 Western Idaho Fly Fishing Expo sponsored by the Boise Valley Fly Fishers.  We had a great time there and met a lot of great folks very interested in bamboo fly rods.  Here we are at our booth at the show:

Our booth at the 2014 Boise Fly Fishing Show

Our booth at the 2014 Western Idaho Fly Fishing Expo

Mary Ann also gave a casting demonstration on the do’s and don’ts of fly casting…with a bamboo rod!

Mary Ann giving a casting demonstration at the 2014 Western Idaho Fly Fishing Expo

Mary Ann giving a casting demonstration at the 2014 Western Idaho Fly Fishing Expo

 

Building a Hollow-Built Bamboo Switch Rod – Chapter 3

I’ve been making good progress on my hollow-built bamboo switch rod.  The next step was making a custom winding check.  Bill Bennett at Bellingers made a few of these for me last year and has inspired me to build my own.  I machine small pieces of nickel/silver for the winding check, and then machine and polish black acrylic as the trim piece.  They look pretty nice on my switch rods.

Custom Machined Winding Checks

Custom Machined Winding Checks

Then it was time to blue the ferrules.  I use Brownells Oxpho-Blue liquid gun bluing solution on my nickel/silver ferrules.  First, the areas I don’t want blued get masked off with tape.  I then wipe a cotton swab drenched in the bluing solution over the ferrule, always making sure I move over the entire surface that I want blued.  It takes about 30 to 45 seconds at room temperature to get the desired effect.  Here is what it looks like:

Bluing a Nickel/Silver Ferrule.

Bluing a Nickel/Silver Ferrule.

It’s important to rinse the ferrule very well in running water to remove all the residual bluing solution.  Let it dry, and then spray the blued surface of the ferrule with a clear lacquer to protect it.  I use Rust-Oleum Painter’s Touch Crystal Clear Gloss in a spray can, but any good clear lacquer should work fine.  Then it was on to wrapping the guides.  As with all my switch rods, I use black thread with straw and claret tipping on my wraps.  I use Pearsall’s Naples thread on the ferrules, and Pearsall’s Gossamer thread on the snake guides.  The Stripping Guide is a 16 mm Black Banded Agate guilde.

Wrapping a Black Banded Agate Stripping Guide

Wrapping a Black Banded Agate Stripping Guide

Snake Guides on my Switch Rod.

Snake Guides on my Switch Rod.

Finally, after coating all the guide wraps with 8 coats of Varathane 900 Gloss, the rod was ready for finishing in my dipping tube process.  I put on 6 coats of polyurethane on my rods, using a dip tube filled with finish.  Each rod section is dipped into the finish and slowly pulled out.  The finish just runs off all the guides.   It takes about 2 hours to dip an entire rod.

The Butt Section coming out of the dip tube of finish.

The Butt Section coming out of the dip tube of finish.

It’s a slow process…kinda like watching paint dry!  After a day of drying time, each section gets a thorough sanding with 1500 grit sand paper, first the flats on the thread wraps, and then the flats on the bamboo.

Sanding the thread wraps after the fifth coat of finish.

Sanding the thread wraps after the fifth coat of finish.

Finally, after six dips and a final 48 hours of drying time, the finish gets rubbed out with a polishing compound.  I use Meguiars Mirror Glaze 83 as a polishing compound and a small felt pad.  This process helps take out any dust particles that have made their way onto the finish coat.

Polishing after the final finish dip.

Polishing after the final finish dip.

And that’s it.  After doing  a final fitting of the ferrules, the Hollow-Built Switch Rod is finished.

The finished Hollow-Built Switch Rod.

The finished Hollow-Built Switch Rod.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And of course, I had to do a little casting down on the river this afternoon….

Casting a Hollow-Built Switch Rod.

Casting a Hollow-Built Switch Rod.

 

 

 

Building a Hollow-Built Bamboo Switch Rod – Chapter 2

Work is continuing on the hollow-built switch rod.  The next step was to glue on and fit the ferrules.  There is a #20 ferrule on the Butt/Mid Sections and a #14 ferrule on the Mid/Tip sections.

Fitted Ferrules

Then it was time to layout the grip and reel seat on the butt section.

Grip Section Layout

Grip Section Layout

The butt section needed to be turned down on the lathe to accommodate the reel seat and lower grip.

Turning down the Butt Section for the reel seat and lower grip.

Turning down the Butt Section for the reel seat and lower grip.

The Butt Section was now ready for the upper cork to get glued on.

Turned down Butt Section

Turned down Butt Section

Cork for upper grip.

Cork for upper grip.

A little sidetrack…I needed to turn a reel seat and butt cap on my wood lathe.  I chose a new piece of highly figured English Walnut.

Turning the Butt Cap on the lathe.

Turning the Butt Cap on the lathe.

Turned Reel Seat.

Turned Reel Seat.

Now it was time to sand down the upper cork grip, glue on the reel seat and hardware, glue on the lower cork grip and sand it, and finally glue on the butt cap.  This resulting finished grip section of the rod came out looking great.

Finished grip section on my switch rod.

Finished grip section on my switch rod.

The next Chapter of my build process is making a custom winding check, wrapping the guides, varnishing, and final finish work.  I’ll share that in Chapter 3.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Building a Hollow-Built Bamboo Switch Rod – Chapter 1

I recently started on another Hollow-Built Bamboo Switch Rod.  I though it would be fun to document my process along the way, so here are some early photos.  First, the bamboo is selected and split.  For this Switch Rod, four pieces of matching bamboo were used.

Each piece of bamboo is split into 18 to 20 pieces.

Each piece of bamboo is split into 18 to 20 pieces.

Splitting into small strips.

Splitting into narrow strips.

The strips for the Butt Section and Mid Section are done.  The Tip sections still need to be split.

The strips for the Butt Section and Mid Section are done. The Tip sections still need to be split.

After heat treating, the bamboo strips are roughed out into a triangular shape on a Bellinger Beveler.

After heat treating, the bamboo strips are roughed out into a triangular shape on a Bellinger Beveler.

Hand Planing gets the strips down to the final tapered dimensions.

Hand Planing gets the strips down to the final tapered dimensions.

Each strip on the Butt and Mid Sections get hollowed with scalloped cuts on the inside edge.

Each strip on the Butt and Mid Sections get hollowed with scalloped cuts on the inside edge.

- The planed and hollowed bamboo strips are then glued together using Unibond 800 adhesive and a Bellinger Binder. The thread holds the strips together under a constant tension until the glue cures.

– The planed and hollowed bamboo strips are then glued together using Unibond 800 adhesive and a Bellinger Binder.
The thread holds the strips together under a constant tension until the glue cures.